This is a tutorial on how to sew a double welt pocket. Double welt pockets are a classic addition to many tailored garments such as jackets, vests & pants in both women’s and men’s wear.
They can seem very intimidating at first as they require that you mark and stitch with precision. But trust me – the final result will make the process worth it.
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I am going to add this pocket to a coat lining I am making to give more life and wear out of my husband’s winter coat. If you want to follow the full tutorial on how to reline a coat or jacket make sure to check out this post.
I would recommend you to make your welt pockets prior to stitching your garment’s pattern pieces together, unlike what I did whilst making the coat lining, as it makes the whole process much easier!
Click here to watch the video, or click on the thumbnail above. Or if you prefer you can keep on reading…
To make your double welt pocket you will need:
- Fabric for the welts. I unpicked the old welt pocket in the coat as they were the same fabric as the shell to create a cohesive look. You can find a similar coating fabric here.
- Fabric for the pocket bag. I picked the same acetate fabric I used for the lining. I would suggest that you pick a light and inexpensive fabric for your pocket bag e.g. a lining fabric or lightweight cotton.
- Fabric for the pocket facing. This is optional but if you want to add some fun detailing to your pocket I would recommend a pocket facing. I used the same fabric I used in the sleeves on my lining, which was a geometrical printed viscose fabric in black & light grey, to further create that cohesive look.
You will also need the following tools & notions:
- Ruler
- Tape measure
- Tailor’s chalk or fabric marker
- Pins
- Threads – I picked a black thread for the pocket stitching and a blue contrasting thread for basting stitches
- Fabric scissors
- Sewing machine
Prepare your fabrics & interfacings
Cut the fabrics and interfacing. I wanted my pocket to be 17,5 x 16 cm when folded so that it comfortably could fit a bigger Samsung or iPhone. I did cut the interfacing the same size as the old pocket facing, and then I used the old pocket facing to cut a new welt as one of the old ones got a big hole in it while I unpicked the pocket.
My welts were cut 16 cm and 4 cm wide. As a rule of thumb, your welts need to be at least 2 cm outside the edges of the pocket opening on either side. Measure your pocket opening and then add 4 cm extra to your welts.
Make sure the measurements are correct. If the welts and pocket bags are too small this can easily create issues with your pocket once the edges of the welts are sewn together.
Cut your interfacing the same size as your pocket facing and your welts, as well as a piece of interfacing used to strengthen the pocket opening. I did cut mine 4 cm longer than the pocket opening and with a 5 cm width.
Let’s assemble the double welt pocket!
Step 1: Mark the pocket opening start to finish with a contrasting thread that can be seen on both the wrong and the right side. Strengthen the pocket opening with the fusible interfacing attached to the wrong side.
Step 2: With tailor’s chalk or fabric marker mark the beginning and the end of the pocket opening. Mark also the welts full width and length. Double-check and control that all measurements are correct whilst doing this. Then do small straight basting stitches on the sides.
Step 3: Add interfacing to your welts and pocket facing. Fold and pin the welts in half wrong sides together – then press.
Step 4: Place the welts on the right side of the fabric following the markings. Put the raw edges towards each other. Sew the length of the pocket opening with a 7 mm seam allowance. Please note that seams need to exactly the same length – it’s important if you want the final result to be good!
Step 5: Turn to the wrong side of the fabric and stitch into the welt stitch lines. This is done to strengthen the welts. Then cut in between the stitch lines until you reach 1,5 cm away from the end of the stitch lines.
Step 6: Cut a “Y-shape” towards the corners on each side. Cut as close as you can without snipping through the stitches. Remove the basting thread.
Step 7: Turn the welts from the right through to the opening to the wrong side. Once they are turned make sure that the corners have a 90-degree angle. Press sides to prevent bulk. Zig zag welts together to keep in place. Alternatively, you can baste stitch them together by hand.
Step 8: Now it’s time to attach the pocket facing to the pocket bag. Before doing this I serge one of the long edges of my pocket facing, and if you do not have a serger you can also zigzag this edge.
Stitch the pocket facing in place at the top of the pocket bag
Step 9: Pin the side of the pocket bag with the pocket facing to the top of the welts. Fold and sew along the finished edge to secure the pocket bag in place.
Step 10: Fold pocket bag towards the bottom welt. Pin in place and sew along the finished edge at the bottom welt. Press pocket bag in place.
Step 11: Now it’s time to stitch down the side edges of the pocket bag. Fold back the side of the garment to reveal the pocket box triangle and the side edges of the pocket bag. Stitch down the side edges of the pocket bag. Then sew over the base of the snipped triangle. This secures the side of the welt pocket opening.
Finish pocket edges if desired with zigzag or overlock-stitching. As my pocket was used in a lining I did not finish mine with either. Unpick the zig-zag or basting stitches.
Give your pocket that final press and celebrate your completed welt pocket! 🎉 👏🏻
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Check out the other replacing coat lining tutorials:
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I really hope you found this tutorial helpful – feel free to leave a comment below in case you have any questions!
If you did make a double welt pocket using the tips I shared with you today do not forget to tag me on Instagram @missmatti I would love to see how your pocket(s) turn out!
